Yesterday we stepped back in time and wandered through the ancient Thee Ain Village deep within the mountains outside Al Baha (5 hours inland from Jeddah). This gem is my favorite spot in Saudi so far.
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After 45 minutes of winding along mountainsides, driving through tunnels and over bridges (breathing deeply as cars passed us on curves), we rounded a final mountain and the village came into view – jutting from the valley, perched atop a hill of white rock as though it was created to be admired. Lush gardens at the base of the village gave a softening contrast to the defined edges of the buildings (homes and a mosque).
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The place was deserted, save for a ranger in the parking lot who reminded us to wear masks. We ditched our stroller, strapped the baby into a carrier, and set out to explore – climbing the notched staircases, peering into the crude homes, and relishing the views. I felt like we had stepped into a sun-scorched Arabian fairy tale. Besides our shoes crunching in the gravel, the only other sounds were the wooden doors squeaking in the wind (a little eerie) and monkeys screeching from the trees (equally as eerie). 🐒
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Thee Ain was founded around a natural spring and dates back to at least the 1600’s. It has witnessed tribal battles and even the defeat of a Turkish army during the Ottoman Empire (UNESCO website). The multi-story homes are well-preserved and the gardens teem with palm trees, lemon, banana trees, and basil (according to an ArabNews article – I wish I was one of those people who could distinguish trees by sight but that’s not in my skill set).
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The Saudi Tourism Authority is in the process of restoring the village and making it conducive to tourists, which involves developing a visitor’s center and other cultural exhibitions. I’m glad they recognize the significance of the location and are putting the money and effort into making it an authentic experience for visitors.
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Finding places in Saudi with historical character is a bit tough, since everything is either new or not well-preserved/maintained. It was definitely a treat to be the only ones at this archaeological treasure and to be free to explore as we pleased!
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